Stud or other jewelry



(No Modl.)

A. LUTHY.

STUD OR OTHER JEWELRY. NO. 396,661. Patented Jan. 22, 1889.

.WITNESSES INVENTORI 2 flm'm 5,4111% By his Attorneys. I 6. 7%.CWEQQAQOM N. PETERS. Pnam-mmn w, wnuhinglunfllc.

STATES PATENT trier.

ADOLPH LUTHY, OF NEXV YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO A. LUTI-IY &

SAME PLACE.

co, or

STUD OR OTHER JEWELRY.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 396,661, dated January22, 1889.

Application filed February 10, 1888. Serial No. 263,624. (No model.) i

To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ADOLPH LUTHY, of New York city, New York, haveinvented certain new and useful Imprtwemcnts in Studs or other Jewelry,of which the followin is a specification.

This invention relates to fastenings for se curing studs, ear-rings,solitaires, buttons, or other analogous articles of jewelry to theperson or garment of the wearer. It is especially adapted to the classof ear-rings known as solitaires and to studs for shirt-fronts and thelike. To the base or back plate of the article of jewelry a stem isconnected projecting rearwardly therefrom, and at its opposite end areformed two radial fasteningarms, the one constructed rigidly with saidstem and the other mounted to turn or oscillate relatively thereto on anaxis concentric, or approximately so, with the longitudinal axis of thestem, so that it may be folded against or in coincidence with the rigidarm or be turned outwardly therefrom a halt-revo lution, orapproximately-so. Stops are provided for limiting the relative movementof the two arms and for holding them frictionally in either of the tworelative positions. The arms are so shaped and conformed to one anotherand to the stem that when folded together they constitute apparently buta single arm, which itself is a continuation of the stem, joined to thelatter by an easy curve and projecting from it, preferably, at an obtuseangle, so that the insertion of the coinciding arms and the stem intothe ear, in the case of an ear-ring, or into an eylet-hole in ashirt-front or other garment of the wearer, is facilitated. After suchinsertion the two arms are separated and turned outwardly opposite toone another, so that they constitute a T- head for fastening the articleof jewelry to the person or garment.

Figure l of the accompanying drawings is a side elevation of an ear-ringor solitaire provided with my invention. Fig. 2 is a rear elevationthereof. Fig. 3 is a rear elevation of the base or back plate and thefastening, showing the two arms slightly separated. Fig. 4 is a similarrear elevation showing the two arms widely separated. Fig. 5 is adiametrical section cut in the plane of the axis of the stem. Fig. 6 isa similar view to Fig. 5, illustrating a modified construction. Figs. 7and 8 are side elevations illustrating other modified constructions.Fig. 0 is a side elevation of an ear-pendant embodying my invention.

Referring to the several views, let A designate the base or back plateofan article of jewely, being either itself the ornamental portion thereofor being connected to or hearing the ornamental portion, according toany of the constructions commonly heretofore employed. Two suchconstructions are shown in the drawings, that shown in Figs. 1 and 2being a solitaire diamond setting, of which the base A constitutes theback plate, and

that shown in Fig. 9 being a pendant, wherein the base A constitutes thehead from which the pendant is hung.

A stem, B, is attached to the base A and proj ects perpendicularly andrearwardly therefrom, and on its rear end are two radial arms, 0 and D,of which the arm 0 is rigidly attached to the stem, being formedintegrally with it, whereas the arm D is pivotally con nected in suchmanner as to be frceto oscillate relatively to the arm Con an axiscoincident with the central axis of the stem B. The limit of oscillationof the arm D is preferably and approximately one-half of a revolution.In one extreme position it is thrust against and coincides with the armC, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, whereas in the other extreme position itis turned outwardly diametrically away therefrom, as shown in Figs. 4and 5.

The arms C and D are each made halfround, and arranged with their flatfaces in the same plane, so that when folded together these facescoincide, and the two arms become apparently a single round arm, ofapproximately the same diameter as the stem B, and which joins thelatter preferably at an obtuse angle and with a rounded bond, as shownin Fig. 1, so that the fastening device constitutes apparently a simpleslender elbow of round Wire, which may be readily inserted through theusual hole in the lobe of a ladys ear or through the eyelet-hole in agentlemans shirt-front or into any analogous perforation. In insertingit the stud or other article is turned so that the arms C D are directedin line with the perforation into which they are to be inserted, andwhen inserted therein the article is straightened as the stem B isinserted, thereby bringing the arms against the opposite side of the earor garment, as the case may be. This done, the arms are separated andturned relatively to one another to the positions shown in Figs. 4 and5, so that they constitute a fastening for retaining the jewelry inplace.

The fastening device is so constructed by means of wedging inclinesapplied to the respective moving parts that when the arms are thusseparated and spread apart they are held frictionally in position withsufficient force to prevent their being turned back by any tensionordinarily occurring in use, but not so firmly as to interfere withbeing folded together by a distinct and intentional manipulation of thefingers. The device is also provided with stops for holding the two armsin coincidence with one another when they are folded together. Theseresults may be accomplished in several different ways, of which I haveillustrated a few modifications.

According to my preferred construction the arm C is made thicker at itsend a than elsewhere, and this thickened end projects beyond the end ofthe arm D and has a tangential face or shoulder, 0, formed on it, whichwhen the two arms are folded together coincides with the end (Z of thearm D, which is likewise tangential, so that when the two arms arefolded together the abutting of the tangential end cl of the one againstthe tangential shoulder c on the other not only serves to stop thefurther relative movement of the two arms, but also, by reason of thetangential position of the faces a and (7, so thatthey wedge tightlytogether, serves to generate sufficient friction to prevent easyseparation of the two.arms. The end a is arranged so that in insertingthe arms 0 (1 through the lobe of the car it serves as a guard to keepthe comparatively sharp end of the arm D out of contact, with the ear.

The arm D is formed integrally on the rear end of a screw, E, (shown inFig. 5,) which screws into the threaded interior of the hollow sleeve orstem B. 111 the construction shown in Figs. 1 to 5 this screw is arighthand screw, being relatively unscrewed when,

. the two arms are incoincidence, and screwing in as the arm D is turnedoutwardly to the position shown in Figs. 4- and 5. When this position isreached, a shoulder, 9, formed at the base of the arm'D, abuts againstthe larger end or shoulder b of the stem B, as shown in Fig. 5. Theadjustment of the parts is such thatwhen the arm D reaches the positionshown in Figs. 4 and 5 the shoulderse and b will be in such tightcontact as to generate between them sufficient friction to hold the twoarms firmly in their relative extended positions. As the arm D is turnedback into coincidence with the arm 0 this friction is relieved by theunscrewing of the screw E, so that the shoulders e and b are broughtslightly out of contact, as shown. in Fig. 1, where, however, theinterstice between them is shown of exaggerated width, it being, infact, only half the width of the pitch of the screw.

In ear-rings, so called, or, more correctly, ear-studs or solitaires, itis desirable that the arms 0 D after being turned outwardly to T shapebe capable of adjustment toward the base A in order that the lobe of theear may be clamped somewhat firmly between them and the base, so thatthe solitaire shall not move too freely in the ear. To this end Iconnect the stem B to the base A adjustably, preferably by externallyscrew-threading the forward portion of the same and screwing it into athreaded hole in the center of the base, as best shown in Fig. 5. Thestem has a head, f, on its front end to limit its movement when screwedoutwardly.

After the arms 0 and D have been opened out they are to be held behindthe'lobe of the ear with one hand, while with the other hand the wearerwill turn the solitaire setting or head, thereby screwing the base Atoward the arms 0 D until the ear is confined between them with thedesired firmness.

In Fig. (3 is shown a modification wherein this last-described featureis omitted, and wherein the screw E, to which the arm D is fixed,extends entirely through the sleeve B and is fastened at its front endto the base A. Thus the arm D becomes the fixed arm relatively to thebase, while the arm 0 turns and screws out or in. In other respects theoperation is the same as already described.

\Vhile it is preferable to mount one or other of the arms C or 1) upon ascrew which turns in or on the part carrying the other arm,itisnevertheless to be understood that this feais riveted fast to the baseA, and the arm 0 is fixed to the rear end of a sleeve, B, which isfreely mounted to turn on the stud E. \Vhen the two arms are foldedtogether, they are stopped by the wedging upon one another of theirinclined fiat surfaces 0 d, and when turned outwardly, as shown, theyare held frictionally in position by the wedging-of an incline, g, onthe front end of the sleeve .B against an incline, h, formed in the rearside of the base A, as clearly shown, whereby the shoulders e and b areforced intimately together. The inclines gand h constitute theequivalent of the screw-thread in the preceeding figures in that theyapproximate to. one face of half a screw-thread. Fig. 8: shows a similarconstruction, the inclines g and h, however, being at the rear end ofthe sleeve B in the position occupied by the shoulders e and h in thepreceding figures. The stop 0 is the same in this construction as inFigs. 1 to 5.

Fig. 9 shows an ear-pendant, the construe tion being the same as shownin Fig. 6, except that the base A is of different shape.

I am aware that sleeve-buttons and the like have been made wherein thefastening device consists of two arms projecting radially from the stemor shank which passes through the button-hole, one of them being fixedrigidly to the button, and the other one rotating thereon and capable ofbeing folded upon the fixed arm or of being turned diametrically awaytherefrom; but in all such devices, so far as I am aware, the moving armhas been provided with some sort of spring catch, which, when it reachesits fastening p0 sition, snaps in and retains it there. Such aconstruction, in addition to being complicated and liable to get out oforder, is unsuited for the fastening of ear-rings, studs, and otherarticles wherein the fastening device is necessarily made very small andslender, in order that it may pass through the small hole in the lobe ofthe ear or the small eyelet-hole in a shirt-front or other similarreduced opening.

My invention is adapted to supersede the method now most common forfastening carsolitaires, which consists of a screw-shank on thesolitaire passing through the ear, and on which is screwed a nut-afastening which, while it affords a secure hold, is very inconvenientfor ladies to use.

As applied to shirt-studs, my invention is adapted to take the place ofthe screw-studs now commonly used.

I- claim as my invention the improved fastening for studs, ear-rings,solitaires, or other analogous articles of jewelry, defined as follows,substantially as hereinbefore specified, Viz:

1. The combination, with the base, a stem projecting therefrom, and tworadial fastening-arms, the one rigid with said stem and the othermounted to turn on the axis of said stem and adapted to fold against therigid arm or to be turned outwardly therefrom, of stops on therelatively-moving parts to hold the turning arm in coincidence with therigid one, and inclines on the moving parts, re-.

spectively, to hold said turning arm frictionally in place when turnedaway from the rigid arm.

2. The combination, with the base and the stem projecting therefrom, oftwo radial fastening-arms, the one rigid with said. stem and the othermounted to turn on the axis of said stem and adapted to fold against therigid arm or to turn outwardly therefrom, and the said arms formed withstops to hold them in coincidence, and inclines on the moving parts,

respectively, to hold the turning arm frictionally in place when turnedaway from the rigid arm.

The combil'lation, with the base and a stem projecting therefrom, of tworadial fastening-arms, the one rigid with said stem and the othermounted on a screw engaging said stem and adapted to fold against therigid arm or be turned outwardly therefrom.

4. The combination, with the base, of the stem projecting therefrom andtwo fastening arms projecting radially from said stem, the one rigidwith said stem and the other mounted to turn relatively thereto, andboth being half-round in cross-section and constructed to fit together,whereby when in coincidence they form a lateral continuation of suchstem, and their insertion is facilitated.

5. The combination, with the base, of the stem projecting therefrom andtwo radial fastening-arms projecting from the rear of said stem at anobtuse angle, the one rigid with said stem and the other mounted to turnrelatively thereto, and the two adapted to fold together, andconstructed when thus coinciding to appear as a continuation of suchstem.

6. The combination, with the base and a stem projecting therefrom, oftwo radial fastening-arms, the one rigid with said stem and the othermounted to turn relatively thereto, the one arm having its end extendedbeyond tbe other and thickened and formed with a shoulder abuttingagainst the end of the other arm when the two arms are in coincidence.

7. The combination, with the base, of a tubular stem projectingtherefrom and engaged therewith, a radial fastening-arm proj eetingrigidly from the rear endof such stem, a screwshank screwing into saidstem, and a radial fastening-arm fixed on said shank and adapted to turntherewith and to fold against the rigid arm.

8. The combination, with the base, of a stem projecting therefrom andscrewing into the threaded socket therein, whereby it is adj ustablerelativelythereto, and two radial fastening-arms, the one rigid withsaid stem and the other mounted to turn on the axis thereof and to foldagainst the rigid arm.

ADOLPH LUTl-IY.

\Vitnesses:

J NO. E. GAVIN, ARTHUR (I. FRASER.

